Edinburgh Review Issue # 127, October, 2009

 

Memories of Eden.: A Journey Through Jewish Baghdad

Violette Shamash. Eds. M. and T. Rocca. Forum Books. isbn 9780955709500.

£14.99

Baghdad, Yesterday: The Making of an Arab Jew

Sasson Somekh. Ibis Editions. isbn 9659012586. $16.95

 

Sixty years ago, more than a third of the population of Baghdad was Jewish,

with a history of over 2,000 years in Mesopotamia. When Violette Shamash

(her married name) begins her story, in the early years of the last century, the

Jewish community was at the heart of Baghdad’s business and cultural life.

Jews spoke the same language as their Muslim and Christian neighbours, and

although religious observances differed, they broadly shared their way of life.

Half a century on, almost nothing remained of that vibrant and integrated

culture. Violette’s family – her parents and six siblings with their spouses and

children – were dispersed in three continents.

Memories of Eden (the Garden of Eden may have been located in the

Tigris and Euphrates valleys) is a beautifully executed and richly textured

account of a family and a community. The Ishayek family were well-to-do

merchants with a fine house on the banks of the Tigris. Violette’s finely

observed documentation of life in Baghdad between the world wars is

compelling, domestic in focus but embracing a much wider context, and

reflecting, directly and indirectly, world events and the manipulations of

European powers.

Sasson Somekh was 17 when he left Baghdad in 1951, ten years after

Violette, her husband David and two infant daughters had hurriedly departed

for India. He was alone – his family remained in Baghdad – and as a nonobservant

Middle Eastern Jew he knew no Hebrew and no Yiddish, a double

disadvantage. Like Violette, he spoke Arabic, and also English (his father

worked in a British-owned bank) and French (he went to a French school).

He wrote poetry in Arabic, and hung out with Arab poets and intellectuals

who encouraged him. He hints at the difficulties of adapting to life in Israel,

alien territory, but his book is about Baghdad and his love of Arabic culture

– he would become a founder of the Department of Arabic Language and

Literature at Tel Aviv University.

The accounts of Violette and Sasson (the same name as Sassoon; the

British Sassoons were related to Violette’s family) inevitably intersect. The

Tigris plays a leading role in both, the same places appear, the same names,

the same ambience of Baghdad sights and sounds and smells, the same warm

response to environment and people. And the same events changed their

lives for ever and destroyed the community that produced them. Although

during World War I, Jews were suspected by the Turks of collaborating with

the British, by the time Iraq was created in 1921 the Jewish community

felt, as Sasson writes, ‘secure and integrated, rooted in the country’. The

British mandate, with a sympathetic King Faisal on the throne, seemed to

bring security. In the 1930s that began to dissipate, and after independence

and Faisal’s death came, in Violette’s words, ‘the first breeze of anti-Semitic

propaganda’ blowing in from Nazi Germany. With the arrival in Iraq of

the virulently anti-Jewish Grand Mufti of Jerusalem in the late 1930s and

the seizure of power by Rashid Ali in 1941, life for Baghdad’s Jews became

increasingly difficult.

As the British struggled to maintain a hold on the Middle East, attacks

on the Jewish community intensified, but when British troops advanced on

Baghdad and camped on the opposite bank of the Tigris the tension began

to ease. Baghdad surrendered, and an armistice was negotiated, though the

British were ordered not to enter the city and Iraqi troops were not disarmed.

It was the time of the Jewish festival of Shavuot or ’Iid el-Ziyaaghah, and

Jewish families felt relaxed enough to carry on their celebrations as normal.

But on 2 June 1941 there erupted two days of rioting, looting and murder,

while the British were ordered not to intervene. The seven-year-old Sasson

watched from a window as looters bore off their trophies from Jewish homes

and businesses. Violette, married by this time and imminently expecting her

second child, hid with her family in their darkened and barricaded house.

Both families survived, thanks, in the Ishayeks’ case, to the Muslim cook

convincing the rioters that theirs was a Muslim household. There were many

instances of Muslims risking their own safety to protect Jewish friends and

neighbours.

It has been calculated that at least 130 Jews were killed during the Farhud,

roughly translated as ‘violent dispossession’ or pogrom. The loss of life was

greater than in Germany’s Kristallnacht in November 1938. Yet, according to

Sasson, after the war the Jewish community rallied. His teenage years were

spent in ‘a Baghdad bursting with activity’ where the Jewish community ‘had

regained its full creative drive’. But anti-Semitism surfaced again with the

creation of the State of Israel in 1948 and the wave of resentment against the

British who were regarded as complicit in the dispossession of Palestinians.

The trickle of departure that followed the Farhud became a mass exodus in

1950 and ’51.

These books not only chronicle the life of a community, they portray

a city that had a profound personal and cultural impact on both authors.

Sasson Somekh’s gentle, reflective reminiscences are full of insight born of

deep appreciation of the cultural richness that drove his aspirations as a

poet writing within an Arabic tradition. Woven through his account is a

fascination with language echoed in Violette’s writing: Jewish Arabic spoken

at home, Muslim Arabic on the street; French and English; biblical and

modern Hebrew. Violette’s inclusion of a Judaeo–Arabic lexicon is itself a

fascinating testament to integration. Language plays its part in her vividly

recreated tapestry of family life and religious observance. Both writers

illuminate the historical and political context, augmented in Violette’s case

by the very clear explication of the ‘inside story’ of the Farhud, provided by

her son-in-law Tony Rocca. And, for those who want to know more, I can

also recommend Marina Benjamin’s Last Days in Babylon, which recounts

her family’s departure from Baghdad and her own risky visit there in 2004 to

track down the remaining fragments of Jewish life.

Sasson dreams of returning to stroll along the banks of the Tigris, the

river that has never ceased to run through his dreams. But these books are

about loss, not just the demise of a once thriving community but of the

ancient city and culture that nurtured it. They are also about the impact of

power struggles originating in other continents and their continuing terrible

legacy of greed and contempt for peoples and their past. The undercurrent

of these stories is the destruction of human life and of the cultural and social

rhythms that sustain it. The latest chapter in Iraq’s story perpetuates the loss

and the tragedy.

 

­­– Jenni Calder